Friday 11 February 2011

Swadesh Restaurant - 98 Portland Street, Manchester, M1 4GX

Article: Swadesh Restaurant review
Day and time of visit: Thursday, 6.30pm

I’ve been to this restaurant a few times now including when it opened in 2009. It is a restaurant that incorporates a mix of traditional Bengali-Indian flavours. Unfortunately, I’m not a regular here because my student budget stretches me only so far. However, my TasteCard (1) has come in handy for all my visits, allowing me to fine dine to my stomach's full and waist-belt’s give - as the restaurant promises – and at a decent price.
           
When you enter this plush venue, you are met by warm faces. The grey, silver and touches of brown and blue hues lift the venue, creating a romantic and sophisticated ambience. In major contrast to the poor student I am on most other days, I felt rich and luxurious… and ever so more eager to eat.

After a short wait, we were given the choice of where I would like to sit in the dinning area, albeit being busy. The seats were comfy. The table was neatly set with a wine glass and tumbler, simple cutlery (thankfully not from IKEA) sat on a napkin and a simple white appetizer plate.

We sat amidst an array of hungry customers chatting and eating their aesthetically pleasing meals. “Aesthetics” and “Indian food” do not usually share the same sentence (not for me anyway) because of the countless encounters I’ve had of greasy curries that have made their way to my table, clearly slapped into their serving bowls with remnants of vegetable oil splattered on the rim. Now you don’t want to get me started on foil containers for takeaway orders!

We were offered well-presented menus that gave a good short description of most dishes. I remember the first time I opened this menu. I was surprised by two things: 1) it was written in correct English and 2) it included unconventional appetisers, starters and main courses. I was instantly thrilled and just.had.to. try them!

Take for example the Chicken Soup (appetizer), my first untraditional Indian appetizer. In the menu it is described as “chicken simmered with Thai ginger, roasted flour, lime leaves and garlic”. Sounds delicious, right? It was! The texture was delicately smooth as I sipped it sparingly; the combination of ingredients teased my taste buds with pleasure. It was aromatic and perfectly spiced – not over powering for the palate or tongue – served in a generous sized bowl.

My husband picked the soup on our evening out, and when it arrived, I almost regretted ordering my Lamb Chops. I started contemplating swapping my starter for my husbands perfectly assembled Indian (yes Indian!) soup.

All regrets aside, I hand picked three (stingy, I know!) chops and devoured them quickly into my mouth within a few minutes, being small and all. However, my fingers tips were joyfully dusted with the dry spices used to marinate those chops. And of course, I licked my finger tips, enjoying the salivating experience of breaking dining table etiquettes; what the heck, it’s part of the pleasure!

Although my lamb chops were absolutely delicious - albeit a few hiccups - they were somewhat too hot for me – the Chef was a little too generous with the chilli powder. In addition, one piece was slightly over done (not burnt) and not to my liking – the meat had lost a lot of its succulence.

My husband managed to catch up with me, finishing off his soup that revealed some unspectacular chicken pieces. To be frank, this was the only part of the soup appetizer that I would change. The chicken pieces were knobbly and (nearly) ruined that beautifully created liquor. 

Next were the main courses – a Hydrabadi Biryani (lamb) for me and Nurjahani Biryani (chicken) for my husband, accompanied with a gravy with mixed onions and peppers for me and a smooth gravy for him. Also accompanied with warm plates… yes! Warm plates – these guys really get it! They were served in traditional handis (Indian serving bowls) that were generous in size, although I still quietly complained to my husband that it looked like he had more than me.

As my biryani hit my mouth, my eyes widened with excitement. Ahhhh, excellent, classical Indian food at.last. It wasn’t greasy or over cooked – it was fresh and fragrant, with every rice grain separated perfectly and every lamb piece juicy and delicious. My husband felt the same. We actually ate in silence for once - you know the kind of silence that emerges because you’re too busy enjoying your meal to talk? That kind of silence.

The description on the menu said that our biryanis would be “decorated with boiled egg”. When I read the word “decorated”, I automatically expected a finely presented biryani, with boiled egg (somehow) placed beautifully on the plate; instead the boiled egg sat awkwardly in the middle of the serving bowl; lonesome and uncared for. This was my only disappointment. I would like to say that the flavours made up for the lack of promised presentation (which is true), but I want you to be left with an honest critique – they really should have done something with that egg.

The service in this restaurant was next to perfect. They were courteous and were only a stone throw away if we needed anything, albeit being busy and knowing we had a discount card. Our waiter actually looked like he enjoyed working for this fabulous establishment.

It was also nice to have a slight peak into the kitchen. We could see moving patches of Chefs’ hats and uniform through the glass patterns, and faint shouts of orders ready to go every time the door opened.

The bill came with two complimentary plain chocolate sweets, nicely packaged in golden wrappers with the Swadesh name and logo on it. A nice finish to the night… and we only spent £20.40 for two (thanks to TasteCard)!

Exquisite!


My palate’s choice for the evening:
Starters
Poppadums with Dips £1.00

Lamb Chop £4.80
Grilled rack of lamb.

Main
Hydrabadi Biryani £10.50
Aromatic Basmati rice and tender lamb steam cooked together with fresh mint, sun dried plum , herbs and spices decorated with boiled egg.

Nurjahani Biryani £9.90
Aromatic Basmati rice and spring chicken steam cooked together with rose water, sun dried plum, herbs and spices decorated with boiled egg.

Drink
Cranberry juice £2.50

In the past I have ordered (not all at one visit!):
Starters
Lamb Sheek Kebab £3.50
Minced lamb combined with roasted spices and fresh herbs and skewered in the tandoor.

Chicken Soup £3.80
Chicken simmered with Thai ginger, roasted fl our, lime leaves and garlic.

Main
Saffron Rice £2.90

Lamb Balti £9.50
Old school favourite

Duck Jalali (hot) £10.90
Chunks of simmered Duck cooked with garlic, ginger, coriander, sun dried Roma tomato and finally gentle touch of Bengal aromatic Naga Chilli.

Dessert
Kheer (rice pudding)


Ratings
Ambience = 10/10
Food = 8/10
Service = 9/10
Speed of food = 9/10
Restrooms = 5/10
Alcohol: unfortunately served
Price: with TasteCard = 9/10; without TasteCard = 5/10


Room For Improvement
  1. Each lamb chop piece should be as succulent as the other.
  2. Improve the number of lamb chops for a starter - they weren't the largest pieces and one must admit 3 is really taking the mick especially if a customer is spending £4.80 on them. Extend this to other starters.
  3. When the menu describes something to be decorated by something else (that boiled egg!)... do it.
  4. Preferably, stop serving alcohol.
Ref

***Review on Swadesh's Lunchtime Buffet coming soon.

4 comments:

  1. I agree with what you have said on the ambiance of the place, which was nice. But I'm afraid when I went, the food was a little uninspiring and not really worth the price in the end. But love your insights!

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  2. I have to say the food at this restaurant was fantastic. I tried the Duck Jalali with Saffron Rice... Ahhhhh!!

    The only downfall while i was there... I felt the staff were more attentive to the customers that were buying alcohol.

    Otherwise, a very true review.

    By the way, i've tried the lunchtime buffet food... wouldn't recommend it!!! Every curry dish tasted the same.

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  3. I need to try this place...and JUST THREE LAMB CHOPS??? I would've had a fit!

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